Sunday, August 31, 2003

in the entire 11 days i spent in thailand, i never saw the moon. how odd.



i'm now in the tokyo-narita airport...not quite sure what i'm going to do over the next 7 hours. i'm kinda hoping they have one of those excursion things for passengers with long layovers, much like in amsterdam...but i have a feeling tokyo is quite far away from this airport. ah well...i'll figure something out. i decided to check my bag in, with the assumption that there's a snowball's chance in hell that i'm going to be able to jump on an earlier flight to seattle. it's so sad---anna arrives in nyc only 13 hours after i arrive in seattle--and she leaves 24 hours after i do and has much farther to travel. i'm kicking myself for not spending a bit more and getting the more direct flight. what kills me even more is that i have over 35,000 miles with northwest--enough to upgrade to business class; however, because i spent so little on my flight, i'm not allowed to upgrade, even with my miles. ridiculous. that's why i like southwest--they don't care how much, how little, you've spent on a flight--if you've earned the miles, you've earned the reward. plain and simple.
for our first day back in bangkok, we just shopped shopped shopped. we headed to siam center where there are malls galore and wandered around for a few hours. at one point, all the lights went out in the building we were in, reminding anna of the blackout in nyc a couple weeks ago. in the evening, we ate dinner at our favorite restaurant in the hotel, hamilton's, and then headed out for the famous Suam-Lum Night Bazaar. There are over 3,000 stalls there and there were beer gardens and concerts all over, complete with fireworks due to the celebration of some sort of festival. We didn't last long, however, since we had to wake up early the next day.



In the morning, Anna & I bid our goodbye to Julia to go on a day excursion to Kanchanaburi. We first headed to a war cemetery where thousands of foreign soldiers (mostly British & Australian) are buried from World War I, after helping the Japanese to build the railroad from Thailand to Burma. All in all, over 16,000 soldiers died during the building of this railroad--quite morbid. We then headed to the actual railroad--specifically the part that is the "bridge on the river kwai". After that, we took a bamboo raft ride down a river over to some Elephant Trekking! Anna & I got on top of an elephant and took a short ride around the area, even for a little swim along the river! What a touristy thing for us to do eh? Anyhow, we then saw a short elephant show where the two of us got "elephant massages" (the elephant essentially lightly tapped us on our backs)...then we ate some lunch, took a train ride for half an hour along the railroad, & then sat in the mini-van for the long 3 hour journey back to Bangkok....



Surprise! Julia was still in the room! For a more complete goodbye, the 3 of us headed up to the fancy schmancy Tiara restaurant for a final toast. Anna & I then literally crashed and didn't wake up til the next day.



Today, Anna & I went shopping again---to the much larger Chatuchak Weekend Market. Whew--that place was overwhelming but quite enjoyable to go to. The bargains there were incredible---Anna & I both got a small lamp that we LOVE for less than $10.



[sigh] I have to wake up quite early in the morning (3am) to catch my 6am flight--I might as well not sleep. Not really looking forward to my journey---I spend a good 10 hours of it just in layovers: 7 hours in Tokyo and 3 hours in Hawaii. ugh. It's going to be a looooong day tomorrow. Sadly, I get in late in Seattle--10pm--and so won't have much time to recuperate before heading back to work the next day. Ah well. This has been such a wonderful, restful, peaceful trip. I had great company, ate great food, indulged in more massages than I think I have ever received in my life and really caught up in all my lost sleep from the past few months. This is absolutely what I needed after my crazy project launch. Time to head back to work and launch another store!

Thursday, August 28, 2003

btw--all my entries are still in seattle time..although i'm in thailand. if you're confused by the timestamp, that's why.
well. today was quite the adventurous day. for the first time in the history of my web log, i'm going to have a guest writer---ms. julia cassaniti--to describe today, as she is such a beautifully verbose writer......



A nine-transport kind of day



The day started out like any other - a knock on our pastel bungalow well before 6 am, a sunrise over the silent water of the Gulf of Thailand, a non-swim in the curvy pool and we're off, missing the songtauw pickup and hailing a cab to the dock, to go to the mainland of Surat Thani. Of course, the dock we go to is (of course) not the one we're actually to leave from, and the bus scheduled to bring us to it is 5 minutes gone - the three of us jump on the back of waiting motorbike taxis and speed bond-like across the island [Audrey: "Anna & I FEARED for our lives"; Anna: "I was thinking about my funeral and who would speak and if my mother would be mad at me for dying in such a stupid way"], cutting ahead of the bus barrelling down just as we spot water. The slowboat of two hours meanders its way past some spectactular islands as Audrey's magazine flies out of her hand in the wind and Julia climbs over the fence with the sign NOT ENTRY to retrieve it, waiing to the disgusted bridge-man leaning out watching. The transport continues as we're shuttled onto our aircon bus for an hour to town - on getting there many people are looking out for our welfare, asking us "Where you go?" and "You go Samui? You go Phuket? Bangkok? OK Tuk-tuk - 10 baht". Disoriented the three intrepid, burnt explorers find our way (via pickup) to a vegetarian restaurant, where we point and nod to noodles and ginger, ready again to brave the throbbing chaos of early morning Surat Thani. Two hours later a phone card has actually been procured, Julia and Audrey walking the streets as Anna valiently guards the luggage and chats it up with the lady-boy at the internet cafe.



The Wat Son Mok Forest Monastery is the destination, a renouned sprawling center an hour away, where Julia will spend a 10 day retreat at the first of September and her kind and benevolent friends have come to drop her off for a night. On arriving via large orange bus with many flowers and hacking smoking women we arrive at the grounds. The grounds are sprawling and strange, with robed monks wandering around distantly, and we wander around confusedly until we collide, figuratively, into each other. We're then led into the Women's Quarters, which should be more appropriately entitled the Women's Ward: Barbed-wire fences, thick gates around cement, bars on windows in the cement cell, a cement bed and wooden pillow. The accomodation is fine, mosquito net and all, almost charming in its rustic minimalism - it's the barbed wire and heavy locks, the obvious inferiority of the women (head warden: don't walk alone. Don't go to the meditation hall. Don't think you're equal to the men, who have the rest of the 5/6 of the place to themselves.) - as this is accompanied by a dramatic rape story of a couple of weeks ago we look at each other and, after laughing near tears back in the room at our sorry position, leave. Julia doesn't have to be there until the 31st, 4 days away, and Anna and Audrey are ready to never set sight on the place again, so we think, what should we do? The thought comes in a flash: Bangkok, a good 15 hour train-ride but only 45 minute flight away. And, pickup truck ride later, we're at the airport, booking Royal Executive Class tickets on the economy-full flight to our favorite 5-star city. The flight is, as they say on Thai, smooth as silk. At this point we're beyond tired, that absurd time when everything, just one step off, seems purposefully bizzare. At the baggage claim we tromp around restlessly, only to realize everyone else had gotten their bag but Audrey. It's lost! We ask the belt-man desperately, as he points quietly to the next baggage belt over, where Audrey's bag sits silently alone, the whole flight come and gone. A taxi ride and then we're Home: The Dusit Thani, our favorite all-inclusive suite with three rooms and vases and bed-side air-control and crystal glasses and swimming pool, spa, buffet breakfast and stunning vista in the heart of the Thai capital.



Of course we don't sleep, as any sane person would, and instead, after captivated for a full two hours by a castaway tom hanks, trip over furniture and find our way outside, across the street, to the tourist-crazed, redlight-district, "you wanna buy a rolex? polo shirt? ping-pong show?" Pat Pong. We've wandered around now for a few hours, well after midnight, too energized even to sit down for a drink. Weaving in and out of streets, it is time for Anna, Audrey and Julia to go to sleep.

Tuesday, August 26, 2003

we were out in chaweng until midnight last night---that was late for us! amazing how on vacation, we've been going to bed so early and waking up pretty early (usually around 8). lots of shopping in the chaweng district last night--it was a pretty hoppin' place.



this morning, we jumped in our jeep (i must say, one of the better decisions we made on our trip---i love the freedom of having this jeep) and drove out to na muang waterfalls which was gorgeous, though it was quite the hike to get up there in our flimsy flipflops. i've gotten really used to driving on these roads...though a bit scary at times. i never know when a motorbike is around me..and people pass each other all the time, so i often see another car coming straight onto me.



we've returned the jeep and are just going to lazily enjoy the rest of the day. we have to wake up very early tomorrow morning to jump on a boat to surat thani and then bus it to the forest monastery with julia--should be really interesting!
yesterday was brutal for all of us. well...not that it was a horrible day at all...it's more that we are *feeling* the activities of yesterday. the day started off with us jumping on a speedboat, first to pick up some other people at koh pha ngan and then off to the marine park. we were all riding at the front of the boat, with julia & i sitting on top, catching the cool breeze. little did we know how rough the trip would be---we were going against the current and hitting some major waves. anna would bounce above her seat like a foot before landing hard back down. julia & i were constantly getting splashed by water. it was crazy! anyhow, after enduring that for a bit, we finally landed at the marine park's headquarters, which was this island paradise, for lunch. ah--what an oasis this place was, especially after our long, bouncy boat ride. after eating, we jumped in some kayaks for a not-as-exciting-as-we-had-expected-it-to-be kayak trip around the park...which was really just going in a big circle around a smaller island. after getting back, we just swam and lay in the very soft, white sand. we then jumped back in the boat to head to another small island (the whole marine park is made up of 42 small islands) where we climbed up to the top for a gorgeous view of the islands, in addition to viewing the "Emerald Lake", a lake whose source of water comes from a small tunnel fed from the water. This lake was the "inspiration" for The Beach. Afterwards, we got back in the boat for a much nicer, cruising ride back to Koh Samui.



In the evening, Anna & I indulged in another massage at this place that we have now called the "Temple of Love"--really, there's just a lot of red light and red curtains. Very nice.



This morning, we all woke up completely in pain and soreness. Julia & I headed into town to rent a jeep (originally, we were going to get motorbikes...but i freaked out a bit for my own safety)---I'm the driver since a) I know how to drive, and b) I know how to drive manual. But it's so crazy! That is--everyone drives on the left side of the road here, so the whole car is flipflopped around...takes a bit getting used to. The drivers' seat is on the right side of the car, the gear shift is to my left, etc....but it's not too bad. Pretty impressed with myself. Anyhow, so we took the jeep and drove to see the "big buddha"....unfortunately, I started feeling really really faint. The heat plus my soreness plus my sunburns just made me feel awful. perhaps I was dehydrated. Well, whatever it was, we had to go back to our bungalow where I had to pass out for about 2 hours. Ugh. But it was much needed.....after waking up, Anna & I headed to the Peace Tropical Spa for....



...another massage! Ooooh, this one was fabulous. We both got an "oil massage" with some essential oils. This place was just an oasis of relaxation. It was just what we needed....Anna & I were so sore...and after the massage, we felt so much better.



We've been joking with how often we've been getting massages...ah, the luxury. I'm getting spoiled here since it's so freakin' cheap!



Anyhow, we're in Chaweng right now, waiting to get our plane tickets from Surat Thani back to Bangkok (after Anna & I drop Julia off at the Forest Monastery just north of Surat Thani)....and then get dinner and check out the nightlife here.



Whew.

Sunday, August 24, 2003

It's really heaven here--the scenery is just ridiculously gorgeous. The three of us spent all day just relaxing and lounging around. It started early with a complimentary breakfast..and then we headed to the beach. The ocean water is fantastic to swim in. From where we are, we can see the island's golden Buddha afar--it's really shiny in the sun. We then changed to a different bungalow where there were 3 separate beds...much nicer...and then spent the rest of the day at the pool. Tough life. Anna and I splurged--we both got not one but TWO massages today! hey--at $5-$10/hour, it's hard not to! The one we just got after dinner was surreal...it was in this candlelit place with gorgeous red thai silk hanging on the walls. This is a life I can get used to....



Admittedly, I'm still trying to get my mind off of work. It's hard...but it'll come.



Tomorrow, we're going to go snorkeling and kayaking at the Ang Thong National Marine Park...can't wait!